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Behavior Tips and More

We take care of more than just dogs and cats.  There are other little critters that need our care when you are away.  We are trained to care for birds, fish, guinea pigs, lizards, snakes, turtles, rabbits and more . . .
 
This month, we'd like to focus on the proper care and feeding of fish.  We hope the following information is helpful .

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Fish are in their own little enclosed ecosystem, and they cannot whine nor whimper to let you know when something is wrong.  But a little practice and some basic fish care knowledge will help to make your job much easier.

What type of tank is it?

There are four distinct categories of fish that are commonly kept as pets: 

  • Saltwater/Marine
  • Brackfish
  • Freshwater Tropical
  • Coldwater

When a potential customer contacts us to watch their fish, we plan a sit-down, or phone call, with them to go over just exactly what is needed.  It's also helpful to find out the species of fish but not always necessary.  We will write down proper feeding information.  Some fish require more care and feeding than others, such as Betta fish. 

The two main types of aquariums found in homes are Freshwater Tropical and Saltwater.  Freshwater systems are the most common kind we will find in homes.  Before performing any of the fish-sitting tasks we make sure our hands are clean.  We do not use soap, lotions or perfumes before handling fish and their food.

Fish:  There is no substitute for keen observation when it comes to fish care, so the first part of any fish-sitting will be to spend a few minutes watching the fish for any changes in attitudes or actions.  Are all the fish swimming and acting normally?  Are any fish sluggish or hiding out?  Are any of the fish chasing each other or fighting?  Do any of their fins show signs of fighting, such as fraying or tearing?  Be sure to see every fish in the tank and take note of any abnormal appearances or behaviors. 

Food:  Over, over and over, fish-care experts warn against overfeeding.  The most common problem when someone takes over aquarium care is overfeeding.  Why is this a problem?  It's not so much that you'll be adding to the fish obesity problem (ha ha), it's the fact that uneaten food can decompose quickly and can wreak havoc with the chemical balances and environmental norms that the fish depend upon for their health and survival.  Uneaten food should be removed with a fine net or siphon, depending on the type of equipment available.  To avoid overfeeding, limit the length of time you are adding food to the water, keeping in mind that any food left over after five minutes in the water is destined to sink to the bottom and rot.  Overfeeding is generally caused by feeding too much at one time rather than by feeding fish too often.  A general rule of thumb is to feed only as much food as the fish will eat in one to three minutes.  Be sure you're feeding an appropriate food - We rely on your instructions and don't try to provide "extras" or "treats" for the fish.

While most people tend to fed their fish daily, or even multiple times a day, if fish have to go without food for several days they usually do quite well. 

Water Changes:  Fish experts recommend that aquarium water be changed regularly by "cycling" out some of the water at regular intervals and replacing it with clean water.  How often this task needs to be done is up to the owner, and type of fish.  Some people prefer to do this more often while some prefer to do this once a month.  Usually, approximatley one-quarter of the water is removed and replaced with clean, dechlorinated water at the same temperature as the water in the tank.

Light:  Each day, the tank should get approximately 10-12 hours of light, especially if there are live plants present.  Many aquariums have automatic timers that will ensure proper lighting intervals, but be sure to check that the lighting element is working properly.  If there are no live plants in the aquarium and it is located in a bright, well-lighten room, it may not need additional light for normal fish activities during the day.

Satlwater Systems 

Saltwater/Marine tanks can be extremely sensitive and require daily monitoring and adjustments of saline (salt) contents.  Most other types of tanks can go with weekly testing and partial water changes.  Here it is critical that we take good notes, noting where all the equipment is, how to use a water test kit and what ranges the tanks need to stay with in, as well as how to adjust parameters.

Feeding and Nutrition: 

Diet is extremely important for saltwater fish.  It not only provides the nutrition to keep the fish healthy, but also is responsible for maintaining the glorious colors seen in marine aquariums.  There is a huge variation among the diets of many saltwater fish and if our clients have a mix of species, the feeding schedule may be intricate.

Many species of fish take only live foods.  So adding pellets, frozen foods such as blood worms or even live foods such as earthworms or smaller fish called feeders may also be required. 

Saltwater Maintenance:  The owner of an established saltwater tank will have a regular maintenance schedule.  A normal schedule may be feeding twice a week, scraping algae weekly and checking the water and adding and/or changing water once a month.

Salinity:  The salinity (or "saltiness") of a marine tank can vary slightly, but any drastic shifts can wreak havoc on its occupants.  Specific gravity indicates the amount of salt that is in the water.  This is measured with an instrument called a hydrometer and a specific gravity of 1.021 to 1.024 is generally accepted by most species of marine fish.

The salinity of a tank tends to rise as water evaporates and you may have to add water to a tank if the specific gravity measurement goes above 1.024.  You don't add salt water, however.   (Remember, it is fresh water that is evaporating, leaving the salt behind, so it is fresh water that needs to be replaced.)  Changes need to be made gradually, because a rapid change in salinity will harm most fish.

The source water for saltwater tanks is very important.  the tap water in your area may be safe for you to drink, but it may be harmful to fish due to chemicals such as chlorine or phosphates.  So you may have to use other methods to de-chlorinate the water, such as distilled water (not spring water) or purifying systems.  Instructions need to be followed carefully.

pH Balance:  This is a measure of the alkalinity or acidity of the water and is a critical measurement for saltwater tanks.  Unless you have a single species of fish in the tank that requires an unusual pH, the normal pH reading should be around 8.2.  Various products are available to adjust the pH level.

Temperature:  The ideal temp for the majority of marine fish is 75-80 degree Fahrenheit range.  This may vary slightly due to fish species, so once again, rely on instructions and notes and check the tank daily. 

Nitrates:  Nitrates are a waste by-product of the saltwater environment and its occupants.  High nitrate levels affect the health of marine fish and support and excessive growth of algae.  A test kit should be handy to measure nitrate levels.  Strive for 0 ppm (parts per million), but some tanks may have slightly higher levels.

Aquarium Equipment:  In addition to the heater, saltwater tanks will also have filters and protein skimmers.  As with any aquarium, the filter is designed to maintain water flow and remove waste products pollutants from the water.  Always check the equipment to make sure it's functioning properly and change filters often.

Health:  One of the main causes of dealing with fish diseases is that it's very difficult to tell what is wrong with a fish just by looking at it.  A valid diagnosis and proper treatment usually require a veterinarian and some sort of diagnostic tests.  And the reality of aquarium life is that owners look at the low cost of veterinary care and choose not to consult a veterinarian for sick fish.

When dealing with a sick fish, do not flush a sick fish down the toilet.  While there are many purportedly humane methods of fish euthanasia, most fish experts agree that freezing is quick and painless.  It also preserves the fish.  Put the fish in a small container and place it in the freezer until the water is totally frozen.  Then, place in a freezer bag or other freezer-proof container.

Always remove a sick or deceased fish from the tank immediately as to not contaminate the other fish. 

 

 

 

We appreciate your comments and suggestions.  Please e-mail us at ma.casey@comcast.net.  Thanks for your support!